Category: Glossary

lark’s head knot

A knot that is used to secure single-ended locks to to the base of real locks for decorative purposes. This knot is also known as a “cow hitch knot.”

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LCO method

A variant method the LOC method for moisturizing brushable hair after washing. The name of the method is an acronym for “Liquid-Cream-Oil.” A water-based moisturizer is applied to the hair first, then a heavy cream...

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LOC method

A method of moisturizing brushable hair after washing. The name of the method is an acronym for “Liquid-Oil-Cream.” A water-based moisturizer is applied to the hair first, then a sealant oil is applied over it....

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accelerator

An external product, such as a spray or rinse, that “accelerates” the maturation process by creating a chemical environment in the hair that damages the cuticle layer and encourages the strands to knot.

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alopecia

Medicalized permanent hair loss that can be caused by a combination of factors, such as age, hormones, chemical exposure, radiation, poor health, and prolonged pulling.

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big chop

Slang in the black hair community for cutting off all processed hair so only the hair’s natural texture remains.

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box braids

A protective style where natural hair is braided with an extension, typically synthetic hair. Box braids are sometimes wrapped with an outer layer of synthetic hair mimic the look of locs.

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blunting

The process of rounding the tips of each lock to make them blunt in shape, rather than tapered.

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braidlocks

Locks started from braids. A head of loose hair is sectioned and braided, and the new growth comes in as locks. Once enough new growth has come in at the roots, the braids may be kept at the ends or cut off. In the case of...

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breakage

When the individual hairs in a lock break, usually caused by manual manipulation (maintenance) or dehydrate hair. If enough breakage occurs in a concentrated area of a lock, then the lock itself may break and shed completely...

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lock brushing

Lock brushing is a method to remove lint and other topical debris from the surface of locks. This technique also redistributes natural scalp oils found at the root of your lock down through the lower shaft, which tends to be...

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budding

When young locs mature in kinky hair, they often develop “buds,” which are pea-sized swells of matted hair in the shaft. This is a sign typically found in locs started with comb coils or palm rolled twists, indicating that the...

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buildup

Buildup is the accumulation of product, dandruff, debris, lint, dirt, or any other foreign substance in the core of a lock. Buildup is typically difficult to remove from locks and makes each individual lock stiffer and...

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clockwise rubbing

Root rubbing in a clockwise pattern. Clockwise rubbing is not any more or less advantageous than counterclockwise rubbing.

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comb coils

Comb coils are a method of starting locs in tightly coiled and kinky hair types. The hair is sectioned, and each section is spun into a soft coil shape using a fine-tooth comb. The tight natural curl pattern of each hair strand...

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combining

Fusing two locks into one, either down the entirety of the shafts, or just at the root. There are several combination techniques that yield different aesthetic results.

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congos

Slang for matting between the roots of adjacent locks. If left alone and unseparated, congos can form double-headed dragons. The origin on the word is uncertain. Some speculate that it came from the term “bongos”—a shortening of...

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co-wash

The term “co-wash” is a contraction of the term “conditioner wash.” Conditioner washing is simply washing the hair with conditioner only, skipping shampoo altogether. Many choose to co-wash between shampoo days as a way to...

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crochet hooking

A variety of techniques that use a small crochet hook to start locks, tighten them, add extensions, or pull in loose hair.

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crocheting

Crocheting is a slang term for “crochet hooking.” Though they use the same tools, this terminology often is confused with the yarn craft, so “crochet hooking” may be preferred for clarity.

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cultivated locks

Locks that were started manually with a starting method, as opposed to locks that were started by freeforming.

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